UB with mum and Em

We picked mum and Emily up from the airport, randomly they had been on the same flight as Geoffs mum, we headed straight up to the hill we had been a couple of nights before to give them a sense of the real Mongolia rather than the overcrowded, polluted ulaanbataar. When we got to the top of the hill (me and nobby travelling on the vans roof) we saw the amazing view of ub and the other way unspoiled mongolian countryside. A few beers and some catching up later and a local goat hearder came over to have a look. Mum asked 'what do you think he wants?' 'I think he wants to be invited over' soon he was sitting on the roof of the van beer in hand offering his horse for my binoculars! After a while he invited us to his Ger at 3 o'clock,he checked and double checked that we where coming. At 3 we where there and having airag (fermented mares milk), food and milky tea. The hospitality we've been shown in Mongolia is amazing! We rode his horses and he drove the van, fair swap! After this we headed to our hostel in ub.

A couple of days in ub before Helen arrived. we went to the black market, brought gaz some lovely clothes :) loads of pick pockets there and it is massive! Met up with Sanchei after a day of sight seeing while the lads mended the van, he took me to his local gym with a couple of mates. He is a mongolian boxing champion and his mate is taikwando champion in the Asian championships! Pretty cool, we trained boxing, kicks from taikwando and did wrestling, a bit of ju jitsu and after two hours I was knackered! Came back and went to a Korean restaurant, food was class. Nobby and dunny where off in the van with a couple of Brits we met earlier.

Tibet - Part 1

All other travelers we met said they were jealous we were going to Tibet and 'how did you manage to get a permit?' The more we looked into it we realised how difficult it was to get in and how many good things there was to see. Therefore we had high expectations and were very excited. 

In 2008 there were violent protests in Tibet between Tibetans and Chinese who effectively walked into Tibet and said, we're having that. Tibet is a very policed region with police and army checkpoints every hundred or so kilometres. Jimmy had warned us about our calor gas bottle on the roof rack. He said we were not allowed to travel through Tibet with a gas bottle due to security reasons. The first checkpoint we arrived at, the policeman was pointing at the gas bottle and shouting at Terry. Not knowing any Tibetan we guessed Terry's response by his body language. He replied with, 'It's a f@#king campervan, what do you expect!'. The young policeman didn't know how to respond, we continued with the gas bottle on the roof. Later Jimmy confirmed our suspicions and said 'I can't believe it, Terry just told the policeman to f@#k off!'. Brilliant, it seemed we wouldn't have any trouble at checkpoints in Tibet.

We were heading towards Lhasa, the capital of Tibet and the most holy Buddhist city on Earth. The road climbed into the mountains, mountain pass after mountain pass. The temperature began to drop the higher we got. We arrived at a pass, 5200m, frozen lakes and snow covered mountains. It was getting serious now! Big Sal was doing well, struggling a bit on the climbs due to the thin air, down into 1st gear on the steep bits, but still holding her own against other traffic. We hit a traffic jam, me and Stew rode on the roof for a bit much to the locals surprise! We could really notice the effects of altitude, getting out of breath from just walking a few metres. At this altitude water boils at 70 degrees. Considering the rapid gain in altitude we were fairing pretty well, slight headaches but generally OK. Jimmy was suffering, head in hands and complaining about sickness, the big girl!

We parked up in a village at 4500m. The 5 of us slept in the van, fully clothed trying to stay warm. We woke at 7am with ice on the inside of the glass, it was a bloody cold night! We had a flat tyre, the first of the tour so far. It was OK, we had two spares, one of which turned out to be as flat as the one that was coming off, bollox! The second spare wasn't much better. We drove the 100k to the next town and got both spares pumped up. This confirmed our decision to get two new rear tyres in Lhasa. They rears were pretty knackered.  It was dark, about 100k from Lhasa, when BOOM, we had a blowout. The other rear disintergrated. Luckily we got the second spare pumped up! Only two punctures on the try so far and both on the same day! We drove the last 100k to Lhasa with no spare. We arrived at 11.30PM safe and sound and parked smack bang in old town.

We woke to the sound of someone bouncing on the rear step of the van. I jumped out in my boxers thinking it may of been round two of someone trying to pinch the bikes from the roof.  It turned out to just be a curios road sweeper. Probably never seen a vehicle like ours parked in Lhasa old town before.

We walked arround old town and immediately loved the place. Narrow cobbled streets, old stone buildings and windows colourfully decorated with paint and flags. We met Terry at a tea room next to where the van was parked. It was brilliant, full of locals sitting around drinking Tibetan butter tea. We spent the rest of the day finding tyres for the van and cycling around the town. At the tyre place Dunny asked if they had a toilet, 'yes offcourse sir, over in that room' see photo! We went to the University for Stew to enquire about teaching English in Lhasa. After arguing with security we managed to meet the person responsible for setting up foreign teaching placements. Stew had an interview and exchanged contact details, it looked promising.

We arranged to meet Terry at our hostel for some drinks at his local. He sent a friend to meet us. We followed him over the road, down a side road, through an alley, up some steps into a old Tibetan block of flats. It was cool, it had internal balconies over looking a central courtyard. Past the communal long drops we entered a three room flat. The owner sold beer in her front room. It was brilliant, we met Terry's friends and sang song for song. Everyone was friendly and pleased to meet us. We headed out into town. We went to a Tibetan dance hall. Not dance music as we would normally expect but more like ball room dancing. We obviously showed them all how to do the tango with brilliant style and finesse. (Not). Terry had a bit of a disagreement with another Tibetan man. It turned into pushing and shoving. We broke it up and moved onto another bar.

The following day we woke up with thick heads. It was the day to visit the Potala Palace. The most sacred Buddhist temple in the world. Set on a hill with over 11 floors and more than 1000 rooms it dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It wasn't like any other temple and well worth the visit. Terry knew the security so we were allowed more than the permitted 1 hour to walk around. We spent the rest of the day and evening exploring old town. There was something about it that made it our favourite town on the trip so far. The people were cool, carrying prayer beads, colourful braids in their hair and old school dress. We were sad to leave and would of liked to spend much longer in Lhasa. But things weren't all bad, we were on our way to Everest Base Camp!

Rob

Mount Tai and Shanghai

We drove from Beijing to Hongmen and found a hostel. We arrived at 6PM and got ready for the walk up Mount Tai. The tradition is to walk through the night and get to the top for the sunrise. We set off at midnight and began the 7000 steps to the top. It's an old path built so emperors could climb and worship at the temple at the top, 1500 m above sea level.  It was brilliant, nice stonework and old bridges crossing a gorge with waterfalls and old engravings in the rock. Then lots of old temples at the top. What was meant to be a 5 hour climb took us 3.5 so we had a bit of time chilling at the top.

The sunrise was very unimpressive, it was far to misty to see it.

The norm is to get the cable car and bus back down, but we wanted to see the path in daylight which was a good decision. Our guide, Jimmy, was tired so he got the cable car back down. We got down in two hours, mixture of walking, jogging and jumping down the steps. Felt good to do a good stint of solid exercise.

We stopped at a city called Quofu with an old walled centre. We walked around the outside wall and moat then stopped at some street food vendors and had some absolute beauts. A cold fruit smoothie drizzled in syrup was everyones favourite.

Next stop was Nanjing, the former capital of China. Nanjing translates directly to south capital. (Beijing translates to north capital). We parked the van up down a quiet side street. It looked perfect. We woke up to find the van amongst a shed load of market stalls selling street food. We heard tapping at the window, the van was surrounded by policemen, one had a pretty serious gun slung over his shoulder. We weren't going to argue with them, we got dressed and drove off pretty quickly.

We found another spot to park a little bit out of town. Quickly a crowd gathered around the van, all intrigued about us, our van and why we were parked on their road. A Chinese guy stopped on his bike and began chatting to us in Chinese. Jimmy translated that he was inviting us up to his flat for tea. 5 minutes later some coppers turned up and checked all our paperwork and said we had to move the van, we moved 20 metres up the road, all seemed good. We went to the guys flat for tea and a turn out. He whipped out some musical instruments and played some tunes for us, then went and bought us breakfast leaving us alone in his flat, very trusting. We had our suspicions he may be the local drunk. Our suspicions were confirmed when he polished off a bottle of vodka over lunch. We headed to a river in Nanjing, it was huge with serious amounts of shipping going up and down. On the way back to the van we came across an outside party, with one lady singing and a hundred or so people gathered round. The next thing we have 100 pairs of eyes staring at us, everybody tapping their mate and pointing over. They probably hadn't seen a foreigner in there estate before.

We woke up, went for a jog then made our way towards Shanghai. It was Saturday, two days until my birthday and we had planned to be driving all day on my birthday so it made sense to have a night out tonight. We bought some Chinese fire water (56% proof) which got us well on the way. The lads made me where the sexy little Chinese number that Stew wore on his birthday a week before. We met some Germans at the hostel and went to a sports bar with them which was good fun. We liked the look of Shanghai so much we decided to stay a few more days than planned.

Me and Dunny went out for a beer the following evening. We were struggling to find a bar with cheap beer. A girl approached us and said she works for a bar where beers were £3 which was the cheapest we could find. We followed her to a bar which turned out to be a brothel. When we said we weren't interested and tried to leave 6 horrible looking Chinese blokes stood in our way, locked the door of the room we were in and claimed to be mafia. They threatened to beat us and drop us in the countryside unless we paid them money. Dunny got up to leave and they through him back down onto the sofa.  They took £190 of each of my cards. Not a very pleasant experience but we got out alright. After we met some genuinely nice Chinese guys and had a drink in their bar with them. The following day we went to a police station, explained the situation so we could get a transcript from them and hopefully get my bank to reverse the transactions. Great way to spend your birthday! The next evening made up for it. We went and sat down on the Bund and saw the most awesome skyline I've seen. At night it was even better, all lit up. We met two English girls who were travelling China. We went out for some amazing street food then down to the Bund for the next where's willy.

The next two day was spent cycling around Shanghai admiring unbelievable skyscrapers, bridges and general brilliant infrastructure. Everything is new and clean. The area surrounding our hostel had about 50 small shops selling machine tools and spares. Just showed how much the country is geared towards manufacturing. Loads of construction here too, skyscrapers going up all over the city.

We still haven't heard whether we can get a permit for Tibet which is annoying. We are going to start heading west across China anyway.

Shanghai was awesome, up there with St. Petersburg as my favourite city so far on this tour.

Rob

Off to China

We had a good few weeks with the girls but it was time for them to go back to work - unlucky! We said our farewells at the airport then headed back into town.

We collected a parcel from the TNT office. An exhaust downpipe, front indicator, side lamp and number plate light. All of which fell out or broke on the crap Mongolian roads. The van took a fair beating in Mongolia. Thanks Baker, Whitey and my parents for getting the bits out to us.

Our priorities for the next few days was to get the van fixed and have a send off party for Mongolia. We met up with Sanchir, Arry, Jaruu and others and had some beers at their summer house. The next morning we fitted all the parts to the van which went well. 

We received an email from our Chinese tour agent saying that Tibet have clamped down on issuing permits to foreigners and the road from Tibet to Kathmandu is closed due to a landslide. So at this point we still don't know where we are going after China. The original plan is Nepal then India but plan b is Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia then ship van to Australia, sell it and fly home. Not a bad second option! We will find out on September 15th.

We left a few days to get to the Chinese border, in case of bad roads or van problems. It turned out the road was one of the best in Mongolia. We got near the border with time to spare.  The drive down was awesome. Driving through the Gobi with next to no other cars, amazing views of nothingness as far as you could see and the odd camel plodding across the road.

Dunny received the sad news that his Grandfather passed away. We dropped all plans. We bought a load of beer and a litre of Mongolians finist Chinggis Khan Gold vodka and headed to the Gobi for a wake. We found a remote spot in the desert and parked the van up. Out came some fancy dress outfits and the three of us had a party for Ken... to Ken.

We woke up with sore heads and all went for a turn out in the desert. I shouted over to the lads, 'come over here and see this, it's genuinely worth a look'. They walked over a bit confused. There were two dung beetles rolling in my dump. They crash landed next to me shortly after crimping off and began rolling it into balls. We watched fascinated for 20 minutes, Stew and Dunny both did the same and without fail two more dung beetles arrived! Interesting stuff!

We tidied up from the night before and drove to the border.

Mongolia has been brilliant, never seen so much of nothing before, which was what made it so good. Rolling hills, desert, mountains, lakes, volcano and loads of people still living in Gers with a nomadic lifestyle. It's the most sparsely populated country in the world, 3 million inhabitants (1.5 million live in the capital)  in a country 6 times the size of the UK.  Loads of wildlife, eagles flying overhead, vultures covering hillsides and we road horses and camels. We met loads of nice people who we stayed in contact with during the 7 weeks we were there. Thanks Mongolia you have been good!

Bring on China!