Best poo ever! - Gorkhi Terelj National Park part 2

We needed to leave the others and head back to UB to sort my Chinese visa and extend Helen's Mongolian visa. Luckily we met a guy called Bat. He was diving back to UB with his brother the following day. He offered us a lift which we gratefully accepted. We arranged to meet at 5am outside the hotel.  He pulled up in a brand new Toyota Land Cruiser. Four wheel drive, V8 petrol and leather seats. This wouldn't struggle getting through the mud! Turns out they were rich businessmen.  They insisted on buying us breakfast an hour into the drive, we then bought lunch a little later. They had lots of businesses, construction, farming, tourism and real estate, it was interesting listening to their stories of their father and his experience with the Soviet Union. Bat's grandfather was killed by the Russians because he was a wealthy landowner who disagreed with communism. This left Bat's father an orphan at 6 years old, he then became a successful engineer, businessman and politician. Of the back of this he set his 4 sons up with businesses. Bat phoned around hotels to find us a bed for the night. 10 hours of driving later we were in UB. Thanks Bat for the lift!

We spent a day sorting visas then headed back to Terelj National Park to chill for a week before meeting the gang again the following weekend.

We arrived at Terelj and found a Ger to live in for the week. We arranged to go horse riding the next morning for 4 hours. It was class, crossing rivers up to 1.5 metres deep and fast flowing. The horses were tough, just got on with it. Helen's horse seemed to like her - a lot. See photo below.

The bogs are a hole in the ground with wooden shelter above. We were on our way back to the Ger from having a dump and got invited into a party. It was a reunion of classmates from the 60's, and their teacher.  Lying in the corner of the Ger was what looked to be a dog asleep. After closer inspection it was infact a goat skin almost all intact. They went on to explain a Mongolian culinary tradition carried out by the men of the group. (Animal lovers beware).

Step 1 - friend gifts the group with a live goat.
Step 2 - men kill the goat, knife to neck.
Step 3 - skin the goat, leaving majority intact. Skin ends up like a pillowcase, open at one end only.

Step 4 - butcher the meat and add spice, give organs to local family.
Step 5 - heat rocks on an open fire until very hot.
Step 6 - fill the skin with spiced meat and hot rocks. Wire the open end shut.

Step 7 - with gas blow torch, burn all hairs off skin.

Step 8 - 1 hour later cut skin open and retrieve cooked meat and remove hot rocks. The rocks are passed around and used for superstitious healing purposes. Cut the skin into small pieces and eat entire goat minus head and trotters. See photos below. It tasted awesome, nice and tender, the best bit was the stock that came out.

They fed us vodka, snuff and chocolates. All sitting around in the ger, about 20 people, they introduced us to a game. One person stands in the middle and serves the vodka into one cup (the drink master?!).  They pass the cup to one person who has to sing a song before doing the shot. The cup then gets passed back to the drink master. Everyone joins in and has a good sing song, they enjoyed the English songs! Even though the culture is so different, one thing remains the same, drinking games. After a bit of dancing we headed back to our ger, a great few hours.

The following day we walked to turtle rock, photo. We flagged down a pick up truck and asked to hitch a lift back. Minutes later we were in the back sat on bags of cement on our way back to Terelj.

All in all an awesome week. Doing the dishes in a stream, washing in the river, pooing in a hole in the ground, cooking on a wood fired stove in the Ger and meeting some interesting locals.

Rob

Wild goose Chase.

We collected Louise and Emily from the airport. They bumped into Jeff's mum ( Stews's friends mum) on the plane! Pure coincidence! Fist stop was the top of a hill we slept the night before.

With everyone sitting on the roof of the van we drove up the steep slope to the top.  Louise gave me the exhaust repair section my parents bought from Chris Mullins, Gloucester. Thanks mum and dad! Photo.

We cracked the beers open and enjoyed the view. On the way up the hill the power steering pump belt rubbed through the radiator top hose pissing water everywhere. We fixed it with duck tape and left the rad cap off. Not long after, a Shepard on horseback rode up to the van. He stared intriguingly for a while then we offered him a beer. After trying to trade his horse for Dunny's bike we declined but agreed to meet him at 3 PM at his Ger for food.

We topped the van up with water and drove it down the hill to his Ger. He fed us boiled mutton, fermented horse milk, snuff, and let us ride his horses, in exchange we let him drive our van. We said our farewells and drove back to UB.

In UB me and Dunny replaced the broken section of exhaust. We met Andy and Sarah who were brits doing the trans Siberian express and travelling further. We had beers whilst fitting the exhaust and drove Andy and Sarah to the same spot at the top of the hill to watch the sunset and for more beers. Was a good night!

Stew, Louise and Emily met Sanchez again, who invited us to a Nadaam festival 5 hours drive away from UB. Spot on. We met Maurice at the hostel, a Dutch guy, who also wanted to join us to the nadamm festival.

I met Helen at the airport the following day and set off for the festival. 8 people and luggage in the van, we were on our way!

The first night we stopped at a ger camp to celebrate their 10th anniversary. Big party with the locals. The night finished with the father Abraham song, the locals weren't used to that sort of behavior! "Put your boxers in your mouth and run around the ger".

What we expected to be a 5 hour drive, turned out to be two days across mud, and we were still one day's drive away from the festival. We hit a thunder storm and the van nearly got stuck in mud a few more times, pretty dodgy. After making our way to a hotel and Ger camp in the next town me and Helen decided to give up on the festival, we had to get back to UB to sort our visas.

We met a guy called Bat who could help us.

Rob

Gorkhi Terelj National Park - Mongolia

Itching to get out of the city we headed to a national park to the east of Ulaanbaatar. Our plan was to spend 4 days exploring the park before heading back to UB to meet Stew's mum and sister ;-), Louise and Emily, at the airport.

We followed the one marked road on Google maps which led us into the park. We stopped at a town called Terelj, 1600m above sea level. We walked up a hill to chill and admire the view, and what a view it was. The small town surrounded by mountains, river flowing through the middle and a steppe (flat grassland) covered in livestock. The primary mode of transport is horse. Children as young as 5 trotting to the shop to pick up supplies. People live in gers, big round open plan tents with a fire in the middle and flue out the top. They are insulated with sheep's wool, pretty important as temperatures get down to -40 in the winter. They suit the nomadic lifestyle as they can be packed up and transported to pastures new on horseback.

We spent the evening listening to music on the roof of the van outside the local shop. There was a constant stream of people riding their horse to the shop to pick up supplies, mainly beer. We did our best to say hello in Mongolian to as many as we could.

The next day we got on the bikes and continued into the park. The road that is marked as a main road on Google is no better than a mud track. Dunny and Stew climbed up a mountain and sat admiring the view down the valley. They played the spinny roundy game and became at one with the forest.  I decided to cycle on a bit further. The track took me down a valley through villages and ger camps. I arrived at Gachuurt, 15km down the valley. I was beckoned over by a local guy who spoke a little English. We spoke for a few minutes then I rode on. I realised how good an opportunity this was to have a look inside a ger. I turned back. I asked if I could come over his fence, he was more than welcoming. But he did say to walk behind him because he has 5 dogs. The teeth marks on his leg showed that they weren't always friendly! He gave me and his friend some lamb which he had boiled on an open fire, fueled by horse dung, and off course copious amounts of vodka .  He showed me around his ger which was interesting. He showed me around his land paying particular attention to the opium plants growing wild. Thanks Singa for an interesting few hours. After the lift he promised back to the van in his brothers jeep fell through I had no choice but to cycle. I hitch hiked the first few km then cycled the rest. It was much harder on the way home!

I met Dunny and stew back at the van 5-6 hours later. They had met some French travellers and a Czech couple backpacking across Mongolia.

That night me a Dunny headed into the town, we met some locals playing pool. We went back to there ger for more drinks, cards and singing. Was a good night.

We headed back to UB, stopping at turtle rock to enjoy the view. We stopped and joined in on a group playing football.

After helping some locals break into their car we did some work on the van. Oil change, filter changes and a bit of wiring which all went well.

We stopped at the chingis Khan statue and had an eagle and fired a bow.

The last stop before UB was a hill not far from the capital. The view was amazing, see photo below. There was a lightening storm in the distance and the sunset was unreal. Slightly dodge being in a metal van at the top of a hill but we stayed there anyway.

All in all a good few days!

Rob

UB- Nadam festivities

After a long procedure at the border we was in Mongolia. We stopped in sukhbaatar had a look at the Nadam there  and  joined in with some games before moving on. Ullanbataar was 300km south, so we set off at six hoping to get there for about ten. The roads were horrific and traffic was just as bad. Everyone seemed to be heading out with full beams on blinding you. Due to this we pulled over and stopped for the night.

Early the next morning we got up and made our way to ullanbataar. Found a good spot to park and got down to the stadium for the Nadam. The atmosphere was quality, the food was even better. After purchasing our wrestling hats we were ready to get inside. It was pretty empty but the wrestling was a good watch. We had a little look at the archery then made our way back to town for the evenings celebrations. One of the best firework displays I have seen erupted from the main square as we partied in a nearby bar.

Day two of the Nadam was the one to watch. After purchasing supplies! We had the stadium in our sights! Managing to buy tickets of stadium security, we were in. The stadium was full to the brim. Our seats were situated in between loads of locals. One of there mates was actually in the wrestling. The whole experience was incredible. Unfortunately there mate lost in the final, but all in all a quality crack! We headed back to the main square for closing ceremony. Loads of live music and visual displays which everyone enjoyed. We met a guy in the crowd called Nyandag, he was cool spoke good English and made us feel welcome 

Later that night we met a few friends that we met earlier in the week. Attended a karaoke bar and sang them to death with our beautiful English twang. They replied singing some mongolian songs note perfect. We showed them the van and a mongolian girl tagged along. She took me for a walk around town and bought me some food. While on the walk Some guys jumped me in the street and nicked my hat!! Dickheads!! But was actually robs stiiiiinnnnnngggeer!!! 

We met some American guys the next day. They told us a load of good places to see in Mongolia. Luckily a guy called Brakton said it was cool to stay at his for a few days. Sweet!! He was working for a American organization called peacecore. His appartment was nice and he let us use his facilities. This was quality warm shower and clean clothes. We also done some repairs to the van. Cheers Brakton for your hospitality it was spot on 

After having enough of the city, we needed some fresh air so headed for the countryside for a few days. All in all the Nadam festival was a great few days.

Dunny 

Olkun island

We left the hostel as soon as we could before the lady could ask us for more money. We were soon in Irkutsk and went to sleep in the van on the roadside. In the morning we went to find the hostel where our friend worked. Russians do not do signs! We went down some dodgey alleyway and into a building which we could only assume was derelict! One shitty little sign for the whole thing. After speaking to our friend she advised us to head up in the van as it would be cheaper than a tour. 

The road was terrible! But he scenery was so good it more than made up for it so moods where still good, as we drove he four hours to the ferry. The que for the ferry was pretty big and not many boats on each time so I took a walk up a hill nearby overlooking baikal, wow! The view was incredible! The hill was a cliff on the other side down to Baikal, with cliff birds of some type living in it and I spent an hour chilling with my feet over the edge and the birds flying right past. 

When I asked the price of the ferry the guy spoke no English but another man did and asked for me, he just said the answer was no... Where we not alowd on the ferry? Back to he van and once we were at the front we found it was actually a free ferry! Tidy! 

Tarmac has never reached Olcon island! The roads where mud tracks that had a similar effect to rumble strips for the next 15km, slow progress but perhaps the most beautiful scenery yet.

The main village on the island is tiny and most traffic was 4x4's. We headed to the beach to sleep by Bailkal, the road deteriorated further until... Yep we were stuck deep in sand! A school trip came past and tried to help us out but no luck. Beers in hand, we jacked the van up, found wood and dug until we could get the wood under the wheels. Finally Nobby managed to drive us out, we strapped e planks to the roof thinking how lucky we where to have wood easily to hand.

In the morning we went for a bike ride and ended up at the view point that is on all the guides of Baikal. Peaks like three cliffs bay, birds swooping round our heads, Buddhist pillars tied in ribbons and the crystal clear Baikal beneath us. This was amazing, an hour of soaking it up and we had to make a move. 

We where going to have to make good time to get to the border so we chose to drive shifts until we got there. We made slow time on the poor roads and it wasn't long before we decided just to head to ullanbataar rather than go to our preferred destination for nadaam, Gengis khans birthplace where we were hopeful to be aloud in the wrestling tournament. Ullanbataar would be awesome though, a much bigger spectacle. 20km from the border and Big Sal had enough! She stopped working...

After turning her off and on we would get a couple of km out of her then nothing... This happened a few times then we (Nobby) decided to have a good look. He was not hopeful as he'd already had a look, he tried everything electrical and oiled all the connections, boom! We where back in business! 

The border was surreal! A ladies car was leaking petrol, a bloke was explaining this to her, as part of his explanation he threw hai fag on the petrol! Obviously it set on fire and luckily the car had rolled far enough forward that it didn't follow in flames! After this we had to collect about a dozen stamps and then we were through... Nope we got sent back for more stamps, I lost shotgun and went in to find stamps a tough looking official was looking through my papers, then his phone went off, ringtone Evanescence! Couldn't not laugh. After being given then run around one of the younger workers took pity on me and sorted it then shushed me and came and jumped into the van so he could see his mate out of the checkout border control.

 

Lake Baikal - Russia

Lake Baikal, the deepest freshwater lake in the world (1642m) and holds 20% of the worlds unfrozen surface water. It is fed by 300 rivers and drained by one. It has 1700 species living in it of which 66% are only found in Baikal. Basically this lake is massive! The crystal clear water is clean enough to drink, you can see the bottom up to 40m below. But being only 6 degrees made for a few very cold swims. You wouldn't last long in there.

We were heading for the great Baikal trail. A footpath leading around the lake for few days trekking.  We arrived at a hostel and met some Dutch and Swiss girls who were also here for the trail.  We decided to walk the first day together. It was cracking, a narrow path leading up into the mountains. Mountains covered in forest on our left and Baikal on our right. We walked for the whole day then got a boat back to the hostel. It was an awesome day and we wanted to do more and go further along the trail.

That night we met some Russians at the hostel and played ring of fire. They told us about an outdoor rave nearby. We went to investigate but it looked like most people had gone home. Instead we bought another bottle of vodka and made our own rave on the edge of Baikal. We did another 'Where's Willy' which was fun, well played Dunny, top form. We had a good night and ended up going to asleap at 8am.

The next day we set about exploring some more of the trail. We set of with backpacks, sleeping bags, axe, machete and the all important Ray Mears book. After walking for a solid day we found a nice spot on  pebble beach. We discussed making a shelter but soon got bored of the idea, we would just sleep around the campfire in our sleeping bags.

There was another group camping nearby, they kindly invited us to their camp for tea and biscuits, it went down a treat. Sleeping under the stars was amazing. We kept the axe and machete to hand incase  bear or wolf's came for a sniff about.

The next day we continued along the trail, it began to get more and more remote and better views. We headed back to the Bolshi Koti to once again get the boat back to the van.

All in all a great few days!

Rob

Tootaloo muva fuckerrssssss!!!

From the night before I was feeling a little sore. A three man lift didn't go to plan and me and rob ended up in pieces on the floor!!! I stayed in bed. Alex took stew and rob on a little bike ride around chemal and surrounding mountains. Loads of beautiful scenery everywhere you looked. We met a few hours later. Cooked lunch using the facilities at the camp, then made are way down to the river for a swim. This was a cool place, so we chilled for a few hours here. Met some local kids and played a bit of rugby with them. 

Arriving back at the camp we were greeted by dimitriy a friend of big johns. He invited us to stay at his and use his banya in a few days time. We chilled, played cards and had a few beers. Being professionals at the Russian card game now we managed to actually win a few times. 

The next day big john offered us rafting at a discount price. Shit hot!! This was fun even though the river was less choppy. Dragging and pushing each other off the boat was the best part. We planned to go deeper into the Altai that night but Anna, Tanya and Alex were keen for us to stay. We introduced them to ring of fire. Shit escalated quite quickly and we ended up looser than loose!!!! We sang Father Abraham to them! While naked Anna received a phone call telling us to keep the noise down. Oops....Me Alex, rob and stew went for a late night skinny dip in the river. Stew chucked robs shorts in, so rob repaid the favour by chucking in stews and they washed away down stream. Little did he know it had stews wallet and phone in. Tootaloo muva fuckerrssssss!!!!!! 

We woke up late and prepared to head off. Before heading off we said our goodbyes to the guys. We all got along we'll. They were a great crack and it was nice spending time with them. I could actually see myself marrying a Russia women one day. Altai has been amazing. The scenery is unbelievable and the people are proper sound. A Quality few days spent here 

Baikal was the next destination 2000km away. Apart from how shocking the roads are, the journey went well stopping for food, sleep and a where's willy. 

Dunny