Saturday, 31 January 2015
After Pokarah, border town and Varanasi
Jaipur to Mumbai
We left Jaipur around lunchtime and headed towards Ahmedabad. We had some long days ahead of us. Our mission now was to get to Mumbai in good enough time to give us a day searching for a shipping agent. It was getting late as we arrived Ahmedabad, it was dark and rush hour was in full swing. Me and Dunny were on the bikes and got separated from the van. We found ourselves on different roads out of the city. We managed to get hold of the lads in the van, they were parked on the other side of a toll gate about 100km south of where me and Dunny were. We got to the toll gate where we thought the lads were at about 11.30pm but there was no sign of them. We tried ringing again with no luck. We gave up and began to head off, then we saw the van and the lads. It was surrounded by a group of Sikh's who insisted we came into their temple for food and drink. They took us upstairs to meet the Sikh gurus who were reading from the big book. The gurus were cool looking guys, big white beards and traditional dress. The Sikhs hospitality and sense of community had impressed us all and we left with good impression of their faith.
We decided to put one more hour under us, we finally parked up for the night in a petrol station at about 1am. The 5 of us in the van bedded down for the night. The following day Dunny's bike was playing up. It had lost compression was wasn't starting. We put it in the back of the van and continued on towards Mumbai.
After another slog of a day we were approaching the outskirts of Mumbai. We had all been reading a book called Shantaram, a story of a New Zealand convict who lived in the Mumbai slums for years. He wrote about a bar called Leopolds which was popular with expats, we had decided to go there for a drink when we arrived in Mumbai. This time it was mine and Stews turn to get separated. After a toll gate and a load of traffic there was no sign of the van. We had no way of contacting each other so headed straight to Leopolds hoping the others would think the same. We fought our way through the traffic asking for directions to the Colaba area. One guy we asked said I'm going that way so he jumped on the back of my bike and directed us to Leopolds. There was no sign of the van, we went and got fuel then back to Leopolds, on the other side of the road in the distance was big sal! We sounded our trademark tune on the bikes horn which got the lads attention. We were back together. We parked the van up on a nice street, had a few beers then went to bed in the van.
The following day we had a fair bit to do. We wanted to find a shipping agent and get the ball rolling for shipping the van home. Me, Stew and Dunny rode to the port, after being sent to the customs house then back to the main gate we found a few agents. Stew went into one, me and Dunny another. Stews looked promising, he was in their office for about an hour until they turned around and said sorry we don't deal with this sort of shipping. Me and Dunny made a bit more progress, got a quote but didn't have much confidence in the agent. It wasn't looking particularly good, we were about to give up for the day then me and Dunny spotted one more agent. We went in and were impressed. He gave us an itemised quote explaining all the costs. We exchanged contact details then headed back to the van.
It was our last night in Mumbai for a while so we decided to have a night out. We had some pre drinks in the van. Stew had met a guy from Monaco earlier in the day so he came along too. Before long there was a small gathering of locals around the van. There was a group of school kids who were becoming really annoying, they were trying to grab anything they get there hands on. We asked them nicely to leave a few times but they didn't listen. Gaz came up with the solution. A few blasts of the powder fire extinguisher in the rough direction did the trick. The whole area was in a white cloud. There was no more sign of the kids. We headed to a couple of bars and a club.
The following day we met a Belgian guy and French girl. The Belgian guy had cycled from Belgium to India. He wanted to go to Goa by bus but taking his bike on the bus was troublesome. We took it down and planned to meet them in Goa.
Later that day we left for Goa.
Rob
After Pokarah, border town and Varanasi
Friday, 30 January 2015
Erenhot to the Great Wall
Beijing birthday
Wednesday, 28 January 2015
Delhi and Hardiwar
Option 1-hire a van, drive the hire van to the border town, empty our belongings and anything worth any money, say goodbye to big sal, drive back to Delhi, ship belongings home and continue by backpack.
Option 2 - send a load of money off to the RAC in England for the carnet of passage, then hope they can process the carnet and deliver it to Delhi in 2weeks, half the time it normally takes just to process it. 2 weeks left us with one week left to get to Goa to meet the girls for Christmas, it was cutting it very fine by possible.
A carnet of passage is a document which allows a foreign vehicle to be temporarily imported to a country without paying import duty. The affiliated automobile association from the country where the vehicle is registered (RAC in the UK), needs to guarantee that if the vehicle is not exported within the permitted 1 year allowed they will pay the relevant import duty. It is therefore the responsibility of the vehicle owner, us, to pay a whacking great big deposit to the RAC for them to issue the carnet. Half of the deposit will be returned to us when we prove the vehicle has left India.
We obviously made a spreadsheet to compare the costs and after a vote we decided to take the gamble and go with option 2. We sent the money off and were promised that the carnet would be fast tracked due to our situation and be processed within a week. Things were looking up.
Next on the agenda was to go Enfield shopping for Stew and Dunny. Stew found a nice 500cc bike and negotiated a good price. After the transaction was complete it was time for Stew to get on and ride it. 'Stew, it's 1 up and 3 down' Stew looked blank, 'ahhhhh the gears...' The vendor asked Stew, who had never rode a bike before, where are you heading? Stew replied with Kerala, 3000km away. The guy looked shocked as Stew stalled a few times then wobbled his way down the road.
Next was Dunny's turn. We found a shop on the next road with a very nice looking 350 for a good price. After a bit of tweaking and fine tuning the bike was ready and the money had changed hands. It was Dunny's turn to make a fool out of himself. After struggling to get it to start, and a few stalls he was off, like a rocket almost taking out a pedestrian. To finish off their first lesson we hit Delhi rush hour.
During this time Gaz was bed bound, his Delhi belly was still in full swing. He had a problem with farting in his sleep, but the farts weren't only farts. After soiling his boxers he went for the 'wrap yourself in a towel' approach. All this meant was he woke up with a shitty towel. He had yellow bile coming out of both ends but was gradually on the mend.
We were excited, we had three Enfields and were all competent motor cyclists, sort of. That evening there was one thing for it, go for a blast around Delhi. Gaz was felling well enough to get out and was able to controll his bowels. We smashed it around Connaught Place, a ring road system around New Delhi centre. It felt like we were on the Cheltenham cruise. Next stop was India Gate, again a massive roundabout circling the India Gate archway. Dunny's bike developed a knocking sound so we pottered back to the hostel.
Our plan was to head off early towards the mountains but we had to go via the bike shop to repair Dunny's. They stripped the engine down and found the problem. The big end bearing had disintegrated leaving chunks of white metal bearing shell in the sump. It needed a complete rebuild. This meant another night in Delhi and a good excuse for a night out. Delhi has a no drinking policy in most areas but one road is cordoned off as a drinking spot. We had a good night. We went to collect Dunny's bike at the agreed time and surprise surprise it wasn't finished. We were getting fed up of Indians constantly promising what they couldn't deliver. It was getting frustrating. 6 hours later Dunny's bike was back together.
We had some good news, the carnet had been processed and was on it's way to India. Eager to get out of Delhi for a few days we began heading north towards Hardiwar. Three bikes, with five of us in total. Me, Stew and Dunny riding with Gaz and Scottish on the back. As we were leaving the outskirts of Delhi, Stew and Gaz came past me and Scottish in traffic. Stew thought it was funny to look over and give us a rude hand signal, then whack, the joke was on him as he went into the back of a parked lorry. It was only slow so no real damage was done but hilarious. It began to get dark so we started looking for a place to stay. It was wedding season and a Saturday so all the hotels along the main road were fully booked. After food and a puncture we managed to find one room in a hotel at 11.30pm. There was three in the bed and the little one said roll over. With the 5 of us in one room we settled down for the night.
The following afternoon we arrived in Hardiwar, a sacred town on the banks of the River Ganges. It was a nice town where many Indian pilgrims visit for a dip in the Holy Ganges. We had been tracking the status of our consignment and after going from Heathrow to Germany and back to Heathrow, it was finally on it's way to Delhi. This was our que to return. We put in a long day and got back to Zostel in Delhi at 8pm that evening. It was a shame we didn't have time to go 50 km further north, into the foot hills of the Himalayas but our time precious so we had to return.
We had a good and productive week, now we had our fingers crossed the carnet would arrive and we could free big sal.
Rob
Thursday, 11 December 2014
Xian and Terracotta Warriors
We arrived in Xian after a long days driving. Jimmy had arranged to spend a few days at his cousins who lives in Xian. On the first day we got on the mountain bikes and went out exploring. As expected the city was massive, spotlessly clean and full of historical gems. We stopped at the largest water fountain display in Asia. It was pretty impressive. Then we continued on the bikes towards the town wall. Its a 16km long defensive wall surrounding the old city. The next stop was the Muslim quarter, bright lights, vibrant colours and amazing street food. After eating our way through the narrow streets, tasting everything that took our fancy, we decided to head back to the van, which was parked on the outskirts of the city....somewhere. It was Friday night and the city nightlife was beckoning. On our way back to the van we got lost, 'I could of sworn it was that way...' we stopped and asked some police for directions. They replied with 'follow us'. We followed the car full of 5 policemen the few km back to the van. It was getting on a bit so we decided to give the night out a miss promising a big one the following night.
We woke up excited because we were going to see the terracotta warriors. One of the big things we were looking forward to seeing on the whole trip. The warriors were discovered by a local farmer in 1974 when he was digging for a well in his field. The site consists of a whole army made from terracotta entombed in three pits by the first emperor of China. The army consists of 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses spread over three aircraft hanger sized pits. No two soldiers or horses are the same, each with their own facial features. The detail on them was intricate enough to identify different hair styles which can be used to distinguish different ranks. The warriors were situated next to the emperors tomb and were said to be protecting him in his afterlife. They were built in 210BC and took 700,000 workers to complete. It was a pretty impressive sight.
Up until now we had been driving on fast but expensive toll roads. One days toll had totaled £120 on one of the big driving days. Jimmy had assured us they were the only option. On our way to the warriors we ended up on a Chinese national road, similar to our A roads in England. It was virtually toll free and allowed us to see so much more of 'real China'. We made the decision to only use the national roads from that point onwards.
On the drive back to Xian the two non drivers bought a couple of beers, we were ready for a big one. We parked the van up and had some pre drinks. A few Cass Reds and fire waters later we were ready to hit the town. We rode our bikes into town stopping for supplies and also at the fountains again but for the night music/light show. We rode to the central bar street and locked the bikes up. We went to a few bars then ended up meeting some other travelers. After some karaoke we hit a club. A group of Chinese beckoned us over and offered us a drink, and another, and another. I thought something a bit fishy was going on so I stopped drinking and offered my drink to Dunny. He drank it but noticed something hard in the drink so spat it back into the glass. Out came a little black pill. That was our que to leave, we rounded up the group and headed to a different club. After some research the following day we discovered the black pill was most likely opium. Luckily everybody was OK. Our next task was to find the bikes, which proved much more difficult than anticipated. After walking around Xian for two ours we gave up and returned to the van in a taxi, without the bikes. We woke up and went on a search for the bikes. After an hour we found them locked up to the same lamppost, pretty lucky!
We spent the rest of Sunday recovering from our big night out and eating our body weight in Pizza Hut. We really enjoyed Xian, it was on a par with Beijing and Shanghai for our favourite city in China.
Rob.




















